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| 05 October 2011 |
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Although it was the first time that I stepped into the doors of Pho-natic, it felt vaguely... familiar. Soft colored walls, faux-marble tables, tiled and wooden flooring... reminiscent of an eatery on the outskirts of Saigon. Add in the striking photos of old Vietnam on the wall, it made me nostalgic. Nhanh Tran, Pho-natic’s manager has created a casual yet culturally vivid atmosphere in the middle of a bustling LoDo street. But it surely must have taken more than just decor to land Pho-natic on the “5280 Top of the Town” honor for 2011, which brings us to the menu. Relatively compact, the head chef, Nhanh’s mother, has carefully selected the essential list of traditional yet easy to approach Vietnamese dishes, including pho but not exclusively so. The appetizers, spring rolls with peanut sauce and egg rolls with lettuce and fish sauce, were done perfectly. Deceptively tricky to get perfectly right, many restaurants overcomplicate their rolls. Pho-natic has the combination of soft rice paper, fresh greens, tender meats and an adequately strong fish sauce dip (to my delight) for the spring rolls, and just the right amount of stuffing inside the crunchy egg roll, no complaints here. Onto the entrees, which consisted of a combination noodle bowl that has bbq beef, pork, egg rolls and various fresh greens. Once again, the fish sauce was just right for this plate. If you are shy to fish sauce, it may be a good idea to taste and smell it first before dumping a cupful in your bowl. This isn’t your watered down sauce you may find at other restaurants. The restaurant’s namesake, the pho, was prepared with raw beef... on the side! At first I was perplexed at the raw beef on the side on a plate a la Korean bbq-style. But not only does it serve as a nice presentation to the meal, one can flavor the beef slices before submerging them in the broth, a nice touch. Nhanh also said this prevented the meat from being overcooked. Finally, last but not least, the rice with seasoned tofu, my favorite, not to mention, it’s vegetarian (“com chay”)! Deep fried tofu sauteed with “house” (read: secret) seasonings, the tofu was exquisite. Layered in clear delicate noodles, with steamed rice on the side, this dish was simple, elegant, and dare I say, thought provoking. Again it reminded me of the times when I ate at the Buddhist temple for a few weeks and was surprised at how tasty vegetarian cooking can be. In my humble opinion, a great restaurant experience is more than just great food. It’s also about the atmosphere, the service and that little extra something that keeps you coming back.At Pho-natic, the enthusiastic staff will assure you a speedy service, and the homemade tofu will bring me back to live vicariously in a little piece of Vietnam on the corner of Colfax and Sherman. So give Pho-natic a shot, and maybe you will find another restaurant to add to your “enjoy and will return” list.
Rice Plates Noodles Pho |
229 E. Colfax Ave. Denver, CO 80203 | Tel: 303-832-3154 | www.phodenver.com
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